Places – Page 7 – FrogBlog | Translating Los Angeles

Not For The Faint Of Heart

There is nothing one cannot buy in Los Angeles. Well, maybe not quite – as far as I know “Rouladennadeln” are not available, but maybe they are, I just haven’t found that secret little store yet where they are on offer. But apart from that, everything is on sale in Los Angeles.

Let’s leave aside the more … hmmm… exotic merchandise and concentrate on groceries. I know a lot of people who have the same goal as I have – getting the best deals while having fun at the same time. So there are the supermarkets from regular to upscale. Nice, but not that much fun. Then there are the tiny stores, always interesting, but with a limited variety of goods. Farmer’s Markets – more like an alternative to a county fair. Now, who buys groceries at a county fair? But sometimes they do have petting zoos, so that is nice.

And then there is the Super King (2716 N San Fernando Rd).

The Super King is big on wonderful fruit, vegetables, cheeses, meats, spices, wines and spirits, huge varieties of all things Middle Eastern, an even larger variety of things one does not know what it is / can’t find out what it is / finds out what it is and wishes one hadn’t. All at amazingly low prices. I mean, Amazingly! Low! The store is like the US equivalent of a bazaar in Istanbul – big, big fun.

Of course a store like this has lots of lovers of all things good and inexpensive. Which means, crowds. Which means, always waiting to get a spot on the parking lot. Which means, long lines at the deli counter. Which means, shopping cart gridlock. Which means, all the things the average shopper dislikes one encounters here.

So, I would not suggest this store for the faint of heart. Those who prefer dainty trips through Gelson’s might feel a bit out of place. But lovers of perfect merchandise, with a sense for the adventurous and new will not find a better place to shop.

Congratulations!

Finally it came to pass: Griffith Park has been designated a historic monument.

For all of us who love the park this is a wonderful day.

Another Survivor

Very high up on my list of magnificent buildings in Los Angeles one can find Bullocks on Wilshire, one of the first Art Deco structures built in the United States. Just by studying some of the details one realizes what a true piece of art this building was and is.

With changing times and economies, the story of Bullocks became quite varied and in the end the building seemed to be poised for destruction. It had been damaged, looted of most of its fixtures and severely neglected. And then – in came the Southwestern Law School to acquire the property in 1994. The SWLAW needed space. It also had deep respect for the landmark treasures of Los Angeles and restored the building to its former glory, while remodeling it very carefully to suit academic needs.

The final wonderful and amusing irony is this: When Bullocks on Wilshire was built, this plaque was placed in the wall:

Somehow the motto “To Build A Business That Will Never Know Completion” did really come true – even if not quite in the sense the original builders had intended.

Two Brothers, A Peace Treaty & Root Rot

Another example of history in our backyards:

According to some this is the place where the history of modern California began – at Verdugo Adobe in present day Glendale.

The preliminary talks to the actual peace treaty (signed two days later) which ended the war between the US and Mexico were held under an oak tree, later called “The Oak of Peace” or “El Roble de la Paz.” Interestingly enough two brothers were involved in those talks about surrender of the Mexicans to the U.S. forces under the command of John Fremont: Jesus Pico, acting on behalf of the U.S. government and Andres Pico, commander of the Mexican Army.

The tree itself isn’t there any longer – in 1987 it had to be taken down due to root rot.

Well, at least it did not get chopped down for firewood or to make room for an office building.

Winter Nights

So we had rain – lots. Some hail – unusual. Temperatures in the coat and gloves range – cold. The swimming pools are laying quiet and unused – and turn into mirrors.

Winter nights in SoCal.

Google For Googie

Most architecture buffs know what Googie stands for – a unique form of architecture, very much of Southern California and until quite recently very much undervalued.

The problem simply seems to be that many architectural styles only become acknowledged for what they are – or where – once they are gone. Which is sad, but not rare and certainly not a problem found in Los Angeles alone.

Anyway, there are still examples of buildings in this style around. Some of the more well know ones are the Bob’s Big Boy in Burbank, the few Norm’s Diners left, Johnie’s on Wilshire (closed and used for filming only). There are more and there are many groups active in keeping the still existing examples of a time intact when architecture soared, together with the hopes and dreams of Americans for a better future in modern times.

One of those examples a bit off the trodden path and under the radar can be seen here:

This building is the work of the notable architecture team Armet and Davis. Originally it was Donly’s, then Conrad’s, today it is the Astro Family Restaurant.

All the elements of classic Googie are assembled: the neon sign with the star shape, the upward sloping roof, the acute angles, a lot of glass and bright, flashy colors inside (not seen here). For the architecture lover and the late, late bird (Astro’s is open 24 hours) I can recommend the place. Food lovers should beware and avoid it.

Don't Raze Them – Reuse Them

Los Angeles changes constantly. Buildings disappear, new structures rise; sadly, this change is not always for the better.

Landmark buildings get help – sometimes. They escape the wrecking ball, get renovated, are restored to their former beauty and put back into business. Examples can be seen all over the city and let one imagine what certain areas of Los Angeles once must have looked like.

Lesser structures fare much worse. It takes a lot of community effort to first prevent their being demolished and then even more of an effort to find some use for the building plus the funds for renovation. One example is this former cinema in Studio City which is now a Barnes & Noble book store:

Whether this former bakery in San Pedro with its 71-year history will find a new life seems doubtful. Maybe in a year some soulless structure will rise on this corner and another example of ’30s decor will be gone forever.

Rewards & Reflections

I never complain about dragging the camera bag with me.

Shots like this are reward enough for a slight inconvenience.

No Ice In The Bucket

Roaming around Los Angeles on the quest for quirky places to eat we hit The Bucket in Eagle Rock. This tiny place is famous in L.A. It was opened in 1935 by a Julio, who – according to some old timers – was quite the guy. You did things his way, or else. Julio is not around any longer, the place has new owners, but with the eatery he also sold the recipes for his famous burgers, the Julio Shrimp and his secret spicy sauce.

So there we were, sitting outside in the newly added patio (before that, the place seated barely 10) and were ready to order. One Bucket Burger, one Julio Shrimp, fries. For drinks we ordered a Coke and a Red Bull. The Coke arrived, but I was informed that they were out of Red Bull. Right, I said, then I’d like a coffee, please. Whereupon the charming server said: “No coffee machine, no microwave, no ice – it’s The Bucket.” That is not something one hears too often in these parts of the world. I settled for a water without ice, which is exactly what I am always drinking.

Then we waited for the food. That’s something else unique to The Bucket – there is a wait, because the food is always freshly prepared. But once it arrived, it was as good as we had heard. The burger was juicy and meaty and the Julio Shrimp was quite an adventure: two shrimp, butterflied, stuffed with crab meat, wrapped in bacon and deep fried, served with the secret spicy sauce. Well, well.

Another place one can highly recommend for eating outside the box; and drinks without ice.

At The Top

Mt. Hollywood (1,640 feet) is the highest point in Griffith Park. So why not start the New Year with a hike up there? Up the Aberdeen Trail, along the Hogback Trail, over the bridge, past Dante’s View, up to the peak, down again, over to the Observatory and back to the car by way of the East Observatory Trail. 3 1/2 hours. Done.

In clear weather the view from Mt. Hollywood is quite something, offering a 360-degree view over the city, the mountains, the San Fernando Valley and the ocean. Alas, even though the weather was perfect for hiking, sunny and warm, but not too hot, there was also a slight haze. So no spectacular view. Well, maybe next time.

Spectacular on a different scale is Dante’s View, a terraced garden on the way up to the peak. The garden was created in 1964 by an Italian immigrant and burned down in the fire of May 2007. There was nothing left, the flames had devoured every single plant, it was complete devastation, nothing but ashes and some blackened tree stumps. Clearing, landscaping and replanting at the site started almost immediately and the garden was restored to its former glory.

With the surrounding mountain slopes still bare and brown after the fire, the garden is even more than ever like a small paradise, inviting to people and animals. The only difference is: People go there to rest and to drink in the beauty of their surroundings. Animals (bees and hummingbirds) go there to work and to drink nectar.